STEP 1— Cut a piece of 16 gauge wire a foot long. A 16 gauge Mother wire will be easier to start with and enables you to get a feeling for how this works. Later you can use thinner Mother wires.

STEP 2— Make marks on the wire with a felt pen. Make one mark two inches from one end and another mark four inches from the other.

STEP 3—shove the end wire that has the four-inch mark into the tail stock (Figure AA) far enough so that you can move the wire right into the chuck until the two-inch black mark Now tighten the chuck.

Use 20 gauge wire for the outer coils. Put this wire on the floor. If the wire is in coil form and not on a spool, get a cylinder like a quart jar. Put this on the floor and place your coil around it. Coils of wire are like unruly children and need structure to keep them separated (I use a metal thermos). Another method is to wear this coil around your wrist like a bracelet.

STEP 4— Figure BB shows a right angle bend on the wire in the left hand. Insert that wire between the cracks in the jaws of the chuck. One of those cracks will have more space than the others. On some occasions you may have to loosen the chuck slightly to shove the wrapping wire into the crack and then tighten it firmly.

STEP 5— Crank four to five coils by hand (Figure CC).

STEP 6—Figure DD shows how to set up the ring clamp. This is the funny looking wooden shaped item found in your kit. Feed the wrapping wire through the right side, and then push the wedge into the bottom.

STEP 7—Crank until you hit the black mark (the one that's four inches from the end) (Figure EE). You will need that extra length for doing the second coiling, because as you coil, the coiled section will lengthen.

STEP 8—Snip the coiling wire close to the coil (Figure FF). Loosen up the chuck and pull the wire out of it. Snip the wire on the other end close to the coiled wire.

Now use your chain nose pliers to curve the wire that you snipped around the Mother wire (Figure GG, next page). You may have to move it back and forth so that the sharp edges are rounded. Do this on both ends.

STEP 9--Stick a ¼" jump ring rod in your kit into the chuck. Make a ¾-inch right angle bend on the shortest bare wire end of the coiled piece and insert it into one of the spaces in the chuck (Figure HH).

Begin cranking (Figure II).

Crank to the end (Figure JJ). Notice that there is a right angle bend on the left side of the bead on the bare wire.

STEP 10—Pull the bead off the rod. Now insert a thinner rod into the chuck (knitting needles make wonderful mandrels). Slip the bead on the rod and shove one of the right angle bends into one of the spaces between the chuck jaws. (Figure KK)

STEP 11--Grab one of the coils as pictured in Figure LL. Now crank. First you will notice that the diameter of the bare coiled wire will decrease in size. Then the coiled area will begin to decrease to the spot where you are holding the bead. Flip the bead over and do the same thing on the other end. Your bead will look like the bead in Figure MM.

STEP 12—Even thought the bead in Figure MM has a nice shape, you might want to change it. Figure NN shows how you can take a beautiful looking shape and make it ugly. You do this by unwinding the coils. This allows you to raise the diameter of the center of the bead.

STEP13—Here is how to make that which looked ugly turn into something nice. I have no idea why this works but it does.

Look at Figure OO. First push the bead as far as you can with your thumb. Then push it with your forefinger in the other direction. Turn the bead one quarter of a turn and do the same thing. Keep doing this until you have a nice oval shape.

STEP 14—Pull the bead off of the rod and snip the ends as you see in Figure PP. Flip the bead over and do the same thing on the other end.

Viola, you have made a beautiful bead in just a few minutes.

This bead was made with two colors of wires. A wire was pushed through the bead and eyes were made on each end. Connect a number of these beads for a bracelet or a necklace.