1: Cut a nine-foot length of 20 gauge sterling silver wire and shove about two inches of that wire into the chuck and tighten it.

2. Clamp the Tailstock at the far end of the table. (See Fig1) You may not have a table that is long enough. One way to deal with that is to clamp shelf boards onto a shorter table. Another way is to wire the end of the wire to a chair

3. The tail end of the wire on the left side needs to be inserted into one eye of a fishing swivel. (See Fig 2) Insert a short wire into the other eye of the swivel and wire it onto the tail stock. (See Fig 1 again)

4. You will be coiling around the 20 gauge mother wire with a 24 gauge wire. It is best to leave the wire on the spool and let the coiling action pull the wire up. Make a right angle bend on the end of the wire as you see in Figure 3. Now insert that wire into one of the cracks between the jaws of the chuck. (See Fig 3)

5: Coil about six to eight coils guiding this with your fingers as you see in Figure 4. (See Fig 4)

6: Clamp the ring clamp that came with your kit onto the wire as you see in Figure 5. This will help guide the wire and will save your fingers.

7: Coil a stretch of wire about two feet long. Unclamp the tailstock on the left. Loosen the chuck and the wing nut that you see on the right side of the crank spool. Shove the coiled wire into the chuck and stop doing that when you still have six or so coils exposed on the left side of the chuck. The coiled wire will be sticking out the right side of the crank spool. Make a hook using the bare wire on the right end and insert it into the spool and hook it to one of the holes in the spool. (See Figure 6.)

Spool the rest of the coiled wire. (See Fig 7) Tighten the chuck and the wing nut. Re-clamp the tailstock after you have made sure that there was plenty of tension on the wire.

You are now ready to coil another stretch and need to repeat step seven. Repeat these steps until you have coiled a stretch that is six feet long. You will need to keep at least three feet of bare wire in the end. When you coil this stretch a second time, the coiled part will creep down. If you don’t have enough bare wire on the end, the coiled part will slip beyond the bare wire. Snip the 24 gauge wire from the coiling on the left side of the coiled part of the project. Remove the wire from the fishing swivel. Loosen the chuck and push the wire into it while you are pulling at the same time from the right side of the spool. Remove the wire from the spool.

8: Now for the long awaited second coiling. I have tried to make this a religious experience for you but haven’t had any luck so I’d best just go secular. Figure 8 shows you the set-up. There is a welding rod that is 14 gauge in thickness inserted into the chuck with the left end in the hole of the tailstock.

9: Make a right angle bend on the bare wire. It is very important that this bend is on the end that has two inches of bare wire. Slip it between the jaws of the chuck as you see in figure 3 and begin coiling. First the bare wire will be coiled and after that the part that has been coiled. Coil until you reach the bare wire again. Coil about six coils using the bare wire. Snip off the wire at the end.

Snip the tails of wire that are caused by the ends of the 24 gauge wire coiled over the 24 gauge. You will have to use chain nose pliers to work out the sharp ends of the wire. (See Fig 9)

Loosen the chuck and remove the welding rod from the setup. Then slip the necklace off the rod. The next step will show you how to cover the ends with tubing. However, if you were to choose a design that doesn’t do this, you need to put your flush cutter inside of the little coil spring on each end and snip the wire. The flush part of the cutter must be facing the piece so the cut will be flush

10: The next step is to cut two short pieces of sterling silver tubing that is ¼” in diameter. Figure 10 shows you the setup with the tubing jig. Saw through the tubing with the jeweler’s saw. There is an adjustable stop that allows you to cut all of your tubing the same length. Push the tubing against this stop and saw a second piece. Use a file or sandpaper to smooth the ends of the tubing. You may also choose to use a small tubing cutter like plumbers use to cut your tubing.

11: We are now ready to complete the necklace. The wonderful part of this design is that your crimp beads will be hidden inside of the tubing that you cut. There are now a number of companies out there that make cable. I like the cable that has around 49 strands. I like to string my pieces on the cable and cut it off of the spool later. String the cable in this order—

1. The coiled section
2. A piece of tubing
3. Two crimp beads and a soldered jump ring

Bring the end of the cable through the crimp beads as you see in Figure 11. Squeeze the crimp beads with a crimping tool

Push the cable into the tube and then push the end of the cable into the end of the coiled section. Shove the coiled section into the sterling silver tube so it’s tight.

Go to the other end and cut the cable about two inches beyond the length of the necklace. Do not use your flush cutter to cut this cable; if you do, that would be the last time you could use that tool! Use a regular side cutter for this job. Thread the cable through the crimp beads. Pull the tail of the cable so that this section will leave as little gap as possible above the tubing. Now crimp the beads as you did before. Snip off the tail of the cable.

The last step for this part is to stretch out the coiled part a little bit. This stretching action will hide the crimp beads inside of the tubing. Add a hook of your choosing. There are many on the market that match coiled-wire jewelry. Hooks also are easy to make.